Why choose a brown diamond ring

A brown diamond ring offers warmth and a natural, earthy character that sets it apart from both colourless and brighter fancy stones. Brown diamonds come in a remarkable range of tones, from soft latte and honey through to cognac, whiskey, chestnut and deep espresso, often described with names like champagne, cognac and chocolate. That range is part of the appeal, since no other fancy colour offers quite so many shades. A brown diamond engagement ring is understated and easy to wear, with a richness that suits everyday life.

The most famous brown diamonds

The most famous brown diamond is the Golden Jubilee, which at nearly 546 carats is the largest faceted diamond in the world, cut from rough found at the same South African mine as the Cullinan and presented to the King of Thailand, having been blessed by the Pope along the way. The Earth Star and the Incomparable are other celebrated browns, the latter found by a young girl in a pile of mine rubble in the Congo.

Brown was long dismissed as fit only for industry until the 1980s, when the Argyle mine in Australia and a marketing campaign that rebranded the colour as champagne, cognac and chocolate turned it into a sought after gem. Scarlett Johansson's engagement ring from Colin Jost is a modern light brown example. That story is why brown is now valued, and the colour is readily achievable as a lab grown stone.

What gives a brown diamond its colour

A brown diamond gets its colour mainly from plastic deformation, the same kind of structural change in the crystal that lies behind pink and red, though in brown it is the most common result. As the stone is squeezed and reshaped deep underground, the distortion changes how light passes through it and produces the warm brown tone. In some stones nitrogen also plays a part. The same warm colour is achieved in a lab grown brown diamond during the controlled growth of the stone.

Why lab grown makes sense for brown

Brown is among the more attainable fancy colours even when mined, and the lab grown version makes it more accessible still, with a clear and traceable origin and excellent value. That leaves room to choose a generous stone in a rich tone and a beautiful setting for the same budget. Lab grown diamonds are created in advanced laboratories using the same processes that form diamonds within the earth. The result is a real diamond, with the same chemical, physical and optical properties as a mined stone, the only difference being its origin. Each diamond is grown under controlled conditions, which makes it fully traceable and conflict free, and removes the environmental impact of mining.

Choosing the shape and setting

Cushion and radiant cuts hold the warm colour well, while round and oval brilliants keep the focus on sparkle. Brown diamonds pair naturally with warm metals, so yellow and rose gold bring out the warmth, while platinum or white gold gives the colour more definition. A halo of colourless diamonds lifts the brown and adds sparkle, and shoulder set and trilogy designs add brilliance along the band. A brown diamond eternity ring makes a warm partner to the engagement ring.

Buying a brown diamond ring from Lily Arkwright

This collection can be viewed by appointment at the London and Manchester showrooms, where a consultant can talk through colour, shape and setting in person. WhatsApp video and virtual consultations are available for anyone who would rather start from home.

Each ring is made to order in platinum or 18ct gold, with free and insured global shipping.